Travel

Sedona: Enchantment Resort and Mii Amo Spa

enchantmentsmallTop spas around the world search for scenic, tranquil settings, design their buildings with understated elegance, and offer a combination of message and body treatments to sooth both body and spirit. Enchantment Resort and Mii Amo Spa, nestled in Sedona’s Boynton Canyon, goes one step farther. The resort combines its stunning location with a healing tradition more than 1,000 years old. According to the Yavapai-Apache creation story, the resort sits in the Garden of Eden.

Dining on the patio of the Enchantment’s Yavapai Restaurant, I can understand why this canyon is central to Yavapai-Apache spiritual history. Sculpted red-rock cliffs tower over the narrow canyon and cast a golden glow both at sunrise and sunset. Set against the turquoise sky and the vibrant green of juniper and pine, the rock formations morph from one life-like shape to another as the sun and cloud shadows shift during the day.

We’re facing east as the evening sky fades from blue to purple. The jagged silhouettes on the ridge take on fanciful shapes. A tall, free-standing spire that dominates the skyline becomes a slender woman.Mii_Amo_SmokingSage-588-RT

“That’s Kachina Woman,” our waitress, Suzanne Wilson, a former Fairbanks resident, tells us. “At certain times of the year, the full moon rises above her and sits in the basket on her head.”

For centuries before the first Europeans arrived in the Southwest, Native Americans made annual pilgrimages to the red-rock canyons of Sedona to renew their spirits and perform sacred ceremonies. For the Yavapai-Apache, Boynton Canyon is particularly important. According to their  creation story, a great prophet foretold of a disastrous flood that would destroy the earth. A wise man crafted a hollow cottonwood log and sealed his daughter, food, and a bird inside.

The flood came and everyone perished except the woman in the log. After many days the log came to rest in Boynton Canyon and she released the bird. When it came back with a twig, she knew it was safe to leave her sanctuary. Since she was the only human alive, she performed sacred ceremonies and with the blessings of the sun and rain gods, conceived a son. “First Woman” became the “mother” of the Yavapai-Apache, so, in essence, Boynton Canyon is their Garden of Eden.

“It’s really an interesting creation story,” Suzanne says. “It combines the creation, flood, and the virgin birth all in one. The Apache still perform sacred ceremonies in the canyon.

”The cliffs of Boynton Canyon along with Cathedral Rock, Tabletop (Airport) Mesa, and Bell Rock frame the four corners of Sedona and create the area’s  famous harmonic “vortex” of creative and healing energy. In the center, the town sits in the shadow of Thunder Mountain with luminous cliffs that radiate sunlight like powerful beacons. Whether mystic or not, the breathtaking scenery has long attracted mystics, inspired artists, and invigorated the spirits of   visitors like ourselves.

Enchantment Resort and Mii Amo Spa, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, embrace the theme that this sacred setting nourishes both the human body and soul. Located five miles out of town and bordering thousands of acres of pristine national forest, Mii Amo specializes in traditional, Eastern and mystical programs. Besides the standard massage and body treatments, the spa offers Chinese rejuvenation, Watsu, Shiatsu, Soul Seeker, Vision Quest, Resonance, crystal therapy, and Ayurvedic programs.

Travel + Leisure magazine rates Mii Amo as the number one destination spa in America. Artfully designed in pueblo style with indigenous stone, earth-toned stucco, and wood timbers, the 24,000 square-foot building blends in with the natural elements of the canyon. A native landscape of juniper and pines, not palm trees and petunias, surrounds the building. Five adobe brick towers modeled after nearby ancient Anasazi ruins accent the roofline.

The unorthodox spa treatments tempt me and I originally sign up for the Mii Amo’s signature Blue Corn Polish, but back pains convince me to switch to a deep-tissue neck, shoulder, and back massage. My masseuse, Dana, meets me in the waiting lounge and leads me to the treatment room.

“Visualize all the stress flowing out of your body,” Dana tells me as she kneads out months of kinks from my neck and shoulders.

With inspiring red-rock cliffs, intense blue skies and tranquil setting, I can feel the vortex’s healing energy working its magic — or maybe it’s Dana’s expert hands.

As a destination spa and resort, Enchantment offers more than an overnight in a scenic setting. One- to seven-day spa packages combine fitness and lifestyle programs, treatments that focus on de-stressing, spiritual exploration, and rejuvenation, and the spa’s health-centered gourmet café, rated “Best Spa Menu” by American Spa Magazine.

To take advantage of Sedona’s stunning scenery, the resort’s activity desk arranges day trips to explore the red-rock canyon country. Hiking and mountain bike trails lead from the resort property, and National Forest trails, state parks, back roads, and local viewpoints make the red-rock vistas easily accessible. Spa Finder magazine rates Mii Amo as among the best spas in the world for hiking opportunities.

For the signature Sedona “wow” experience, we join a sunset Jeep tour of the back country with A Day In the West, the oldest tour company in Sedona. David Davis, “the Professor,” plies us with equal amounts of wit, Indian legends, and local history as he drives over rutted Forest Service tracks that resemble rocky roller coasters more that roads.

With the sun low in the sky, we stop on a highpoint to watch the spectacle. To the east the red cliffs of Boynton Canyon light up with rosy hues. In the west, the clouds blaze from yellow and orange to crimson. Gradually, the mesas fade to blue and the red-rock formations turn into black silhouettes. The silence of the desert  settles over us for the night.

The red-rock canyons of Sedona earn their reputation as some of the most soul-stirring scenery in the nation. What better location for the top destination spa in the nation?

George Oxford Miller is a free-lance travel writer and photographer. He is a frequent contributor to Houston Woman Magazine.

Florida: Conch Republic redefines normal

Before I visited Key West in Florida I had the mistaken notion that the city was a part of the United States. After a day shopping Duval Street and an evening watching the sunset from Mallory Pier, I realized the degree of my mistake. I was 150 miles from Miami, and 90 miles from Havana. I was 45 miles south of the Tropic of Cancer. I was in the Conch Republic.

Normality assumes a different definition the farther one travels south of the mainland. Normal for Key West has been hard to define since before John Simonton, an Alabama businessman, paid Spain $2,000 for the island in 1822. Only mosquitoes and pirates inhabited the forsaken speck of land and, of the two, malaria was the lesser health threat. The West India Anti-Pirate Squadron chased out the pirates by 1830, leaving the island in the domain of rum-runners and wreckers, people who lived off the ships that regularly crashed on the shallow reefs. Tourists had to wait until 1912 when Henry Flagler’s railroad reached the southernmost point of the continent.

Tonight at Mallory Pier, as though it’s an unexpected occurrence, people cheer as the sun slips into the crimson sea. Technicolor clouds frame the horizon, discordant drum and guitar cords drift above the hubbub like gulls sailing overhead, and people elbow their way past jugglers, Tarot card readers, portrait artists and self-proclaimed gurus. Mallory Pier, more famous for its sunsets than the Grand Canyon, is not the place for a tourist to blend in with the locals. But, I don’t particularly want to blend in with a drop-out stock broker with tie-died hair.

After my first day in Margaritaville, I’m not sure who owns the island, the crazies with cameras or the crazies with the Florida license plates. But twice, I was given the opportunity to own a piece of paradise myself. Time-share condo salesmen stalk tourists like barracudas after a school of sardines.

Just as seeing the sunset on Mallory Pier is obligatory, shopping Duval Street is the required introduction to the Key West scene. After strolling the first block, I realized there is no way to walk down the crowded street and maintain a shred of dignity. But if I wanted dignity, I would have bought a ticket to Williamsburg, not the Conch Republic.

Key West has never been known for attracting, encouraging, or even condoning, a dignified image. Pirates and smugglers aren’t dignified; neither are tee-shirts with lewd messages, street vendors blowing conch horns, corner musicians emulating Jimmy Buffet, or bars that start filling shortly after breakfast. Where else could the mayor protest the military by water skiing to Cuba (a six hour trip), and no one thinking it a particularly odd thing to do?

But for what Key West lacks in dignity, it compensates with style. It is the only town I know that can absorb a million tourists a year and maintain its identity. Duval Street is a study of Key West kitsch. Unlike most coastal tourist towns or the mega-theme parks in Orlando, Key West has turned tacky into authenticity. This town isn’t about to take anything seriously, much less itself. And it imparts the same carefree, accepting attitude to its visitors. If you can’t be laid back on a subtropical island, stay home and read the Wall Street Journal

What endears Key West to conchs (locals) and tourists alike is the sense of place that permeates every street in the town. Key West has roots that reach back in history and give permanence to what would otherwise be a one-night-stand tourist town. The elegant architecture of 100-year-old homes, some converted into intimate hotels, towering kapok trees and luxuriant tropical gardens, and the salubrious days and balmy nights transport visitors into a separate reality, which is what vacationing is all about.

SmallHemmingway_House-004I make my first pilgrimage into Key West’s rich historical heritage when I step into Ernest Hemingway’s home. I previously visited Sloppy Joe’s bar, where Papa was apt to spent his afternoons after a heavy morning of writing. Now, I’m seeing where he wrote 70 percent of his life’s works, including For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea.

Hemingway and his second wife, Pauline, filled the 19th century, Spanish Colonial house with furnishings and memorabilia from his travels in Spain, Africa and Cuba and with his famous polydactyl cats. He kept 50 of them, all with more than five toes, and all named after famous movie stars and celebrities Hemingway knew. Forty-two of the descendants still loll around the grounds and on the catwalk, which connects the house to Hemingway’s study. Feline lovers can buy a kitten, but the waiting list is five years long. Literary lovers can sit in the Nobel Prize winner’s airy upstairs room and imagine the clatter of his manual typewriter, then go downstairs and see the urinal he brought home from his favorite downtown bar to use as a cat watering trough. Tacky? No, pure Key West.

KeyWestConchTrnSmallThe Conch Train is the best way to see the historic sights of the town. Once again I swallow my dignity and board one of the decorated cars. A jeep disguised as a miniature train engine pulls the tram, while a narrator fills the trip with a blend of interesting history and senseless trivia. Somehow even the corny jokes seem appropriate here.We drive down streets lined with palm trees and bougainvilleas, past the Audubon House Museum (in which Audubon never stayed), past Truman’s Little White House (which the President loved to visit), and old Fort Zachary Taylor, which captured 1,500 Confederate ships. This is like a Disneyworld ride, except the people passing on bikes with dogs in their baskets are real, not robotic figures.

The tram rolls slowly through the streets, but nobody appears to notice something as mundane as a tiny locomotive cruising their neighborhood. I feel as if I’m in the Twilight Zone between Oz and Wonderland where Alice and Dorothy are discussing who’s more interesting, the tourists or the locals. But the conchs are too busy enjoying each other to pay much attention to the tourists. Maybe Key West’s best kept secret is that the tiny island is big enough for everybody.

George Oxford Miller is a free-lance travel writer and frequent contributor to Houston Woman Magazine.

Dallas: Embracing art as new city icon

walkingtothesky2Think, “Downtown Dallas,” and what pops into your mind? Opulent shopping at Neiman Marcus, the Dallas Cowboys? With a revitalized, 19-square-block Art District, Dallas has forged a new image, a new icon, and it’s art with a capital A.

“The Art District is really about the heartbeat of the city. It’s about what’s behind the façade” says Caren Prothro, a member of the Board of Trustees of both SMU and the Dallas Museum of Art. “We’re not just about enterprise and business and politics. We’re about people.”

The Art District had its beginnings in 1984 when the Dallas Museum of Art, founded in 1903, relocated from the State Fair Grounds to the northeast corner of downtown. Then in 1989, the Morton Meyerson Symphony Center, designed by I. M. Pei, debuted a few blocks away. The Crow Collection of Asian Art opened in the Trammell Crow Center in 1998, followed by the Nasher Sculpture Center, designed by Pritzker Prize winning architect Renzo Piano, in 2003.

Each art facility represents decades of work by supporters and collectors and has its own unique assemblage of world-class art. With a permanent collection of 23,000 works, the Dallas Museum of Art encompasses the world. In the gallery for Ancient American Art, I’m amazed by the design and vibrant colors of a wool textile from Peru. Red squares embroidered with condor figures cover a wall-sized black tapestry. It would be spectacular in any age, something Neiman Marcus would sell, yet it’s 2,000 years old.

At the Nasher Sculpture Center, the galleries and outside gardens exhibit works by Picasso, Rodin, Jonathan Borofsky, Alexander Calder, Paul Gauguin, Claes Oldenburg, Henry Moore and other world recognized masters. The sculpted images, some realistic, some abstract, reveal hidden dimensions of human nature.In 2009, the 30-year vision of the Arts District reached its culmination with the opening of the Margot and Bill Winspear Opera House and the Dee and Charles Wyly Theater Center. The remodeled Annette Strauss Artist Square creates an outdoor performance venue and leisure open space to escape the concrete avenues of the surrounding city. The final member, the City Performance Hall, opens in 2011.

Standing together like standard bearers, the new Winspear Opera House and Wyly Theater continue the tradition of cutting-edge, award-winning architecture. The square, aluminum-clad Wyly Theater and the lipstick-red, oval Opera House complete the complex of iconic, monumental buildings.

As a coda to the 2009 opening of the Opera House and Wyly Theater, the Sheraton Dallas Hotel, bordering the Arts District, completed a $90 million renovation and re-launched under Starwood Hotels and Resorts brand.

“We’re the largest hotel in Texas with 1,840 guest rooms, but we want to be known as the friendliest hotel in Texas,” Ray Hammer, the general manager, said.

Unlike most luxury hotels, the Sheraton Dallas offers free WiFi and computer use in the Link, a special work-entertainment area in the lobby with 20 computer stations and TV viewing areas. The guest rooms have 37-inch flat screens with multimedia computer connections and iPod docking stations.

“We try to give people what they miss most from home, Hammer says. “The interior design, and even the restaurant menu, creates an at-home feeling. The top-selling dish is meat loaf.”

After sampling the gourmet entrees in the hotel’s Kitchen Table and the finger food in the Draft Media Sports bar, that trend puzzles me. Even Peets coffee and sandwiches in the lobby and Chills frozen yogurt dessert bar stand out from the typical franchise eateries.

Besides art, downtown Dallas has always been known for its eclectic dining. After a day in the galleries, we don’t have to walk far from the Sheraton to find burgers, seafood, Tex-Mex, Italian, BBQ and even Mediterranean. For Italian, the concierge recommends the Ravenna Urban Italian Restaurant. We skip the pizza and go straight for the authentic dishes. The chicken senatori is the best Italian I’ve had this side of South Philly.

The historic Neiman Marcus store is also on the edge of the Arts District. In 1907, Herbert Marcus and his sister Carrie Marcus Neiman decided to open a luxury department store instead of investing in a “sugary soda pop business” called Coca-Cola. The downtown store dates back to 1914 and, besides $900 cotton blouses and $3,500 leather vests, sells a chocolate chip cookie so good it has its own urban legend.

Art and Neiman Marcus have always been synonymous. The first branch store opened in 1950 with an Alexander Calder mobile as the centerpiece. Neimans once borrowed 20 Gauguin paintings from collectors around the world to inspire a new line of fashions. The success of Neiman’s epitomizes the entrepreneurial spirit of Dallas that made the $354 million Arts District possible.

“The Arts District is a gift to the city,” Linda Pitts Custard, a businesswoman and benefactor for the arts, said. “Ninety-five percent of the money came from private individuals, corporations and foundations. Cities rise and fall, armies annihilate each other, but art survives because it’s a reflection of man’s spirit and will.”

Charles Wyly, who with his wife donated $20 million for the Wyly Theater, sums up the city’s commitment to art. “Art stimulates creativity and helps bring out our highest aspirations. Art is essential for an open and free society.” 

George Oxford Miller is a free-lance travel writer and frequent contributor to Houston Woman Magazine.

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